Trips 8 and 9: Seattle, Washington – Vancouver, British Columbia (and back)

Train: Amtrak Cascades
Estimated Travel Duration: 4 hours each way

I rode the Amtrak Cascades from Seattle, Washington to Vancouver, British Columbia, before returning via the same route (but in the opposite direction) four days later. Much to my disappointment, my guide book did not cover this route, so I was forced to rely on my phone’s GPS to track the train’s progress and stay abreast of what I was viewing out the window. Whilst this provided some consolation, I still felt lost without my guidebook to inform me about the history of the places the train was passing. Overall, this trip was more memorable than the Portland–Seattle route which I had taken a few days before, but still unable to compete with the much more impressive transcontinental routes I had been taking.

Upon disembarking in Vancouver, all passengers must clear immigration. I had not yet planned my time in the city, intending to do so that afternoon. As such, I performed abysmally when the immigration officer asked me to list the attractions that I had come to Vancouver to see. My return to the USA four days later was much easier – I had to provide my fingerprints but no questions were asked. 

VANCOUVER

In Vancouver I explored Stanley Park, Gastown, and Granville Island. The latter was a definite highlight, commencing with a pleasurable ferry trip across the False Creek Inlet which connects Downtown Vancouver with Granville Island. I then spent half a day exploring the latter’s large indoor market and surrounding streets which are filled with stores selling produce, baked goods, and unique gifts.

In Gastown (a historic neighbourhood in Vancouver), I enjoyed watching the famous steam clock produce a puff of steam from its top on the hour. It was not long, however, before I had walked a street too far and into the part of Gastown where a large portion of Vancouver’s 2000+ homeless people reside. There is a free train which homeless people from other Canadian provinces/territories can catch to Vancouver, allowing them to survive the winter in Vancouver’s more mild climate.

Despite having heard great things about Vancouver prior to my visit, I did not enjoy the city as much as I was hoping to. This stemmed primarily from my dislike of the city’s unsightly modernist architecture which can be seen in the picture below.

WHISTLER

I had initially intended to spend four days in Vancouver, but decided at the last minute to spend two of these days in Whistler. This was a wise decision as Whistler turned out to be my favourite destination on the trip thus far. The bus ride between Vancouver and Whistler took me along the famous Sea-to-Sky Highway, with spectacular views.

In Whistler, I purchased a pass which allowed me to ride the longest continuous lift system in the world, consisting of a gondola up Blackcomb Mountain, the ‘Peak 2 Peak’ gondola between Blackcomb and Whistler Mountains, a chairlift to a suspension bridge which spans from Whistler Peak to a viewing platform, and finally, another gondola down Whistler Mountain. The views from the chairlift and all three gondola rides were breathtaking. The ‘Peak 2 Peak’ gondola holds the world record for being the longest unsupported span between two cable car towers, as well as the world record for being the highest cable car above ground.

When I was finished in the mountains, I also enjoyed exploring the pedestrian-only Whistler village, with its plethora of shops and restaurants. On my final afternoon, I took a trip to see the Lost Lake.

Returning to Vancouver, I then took the Amtrak Cascades back to Seattle, before boarding the east-bound Empire Builder later that afternoon.